Hehe, vidio sam alternativa-forum, Red Pill ima "naj" ideje - barem koliko sam to subjektivno uočio. Jasno, tamo je puno drugih isto prekrasnih i inovativnih, pa bih sve njih pozdravio i proglasio jednako vrijednima. Za svaku pohvalu svima koji ih rade, pa makar i onima koji naprave samo par komada na početku!
- postoji jos shema da se koristi beton ili gips, ali se nsiu pokazali bas najnaj
Heh, nene... bolje je beton ili gips ne "kemijati" u orgonite jer mora biti organski materijal ( uz anorganski - razne metale koje unutra stavljamo ). Ovo "organski" znači da sadrži UGLJIK ( kemijski C ) ili njegove spojeve, a ne da je dobiven od mrtvih biljaka ili životinja ( iako i to mogu biti spojevi ugljika, kao npr. piljevina, ugljen, itd. ). Gips nema ugljika ( CaSO4 x H2O ), kao ni beton ( Ca(OH)2 ) - to su spojevi kalcija, a time i nekorisni kod konstrukcije orgonita.
Zapravo, dobio sam ideju da se smrvi ugljen, pa se pomiješa sa epoksidnom smolom, tako da se dobije "koncentriranija" smjesa ugljika i njegovih spojeva. Dakle, da se malo "ojača" organska komponenta.
E, pazi sad... u mojim orgoncima ima itekako čavli, bakrene žice ( obično nasjeckane, oće ruka boljeti poslije 12545 stisaka kombiniranim kliještima, ili cvik-cangama ), kristala ( obično gorskog ), a ovo "sitno" ti je - pazi sad - kvarcni pijesak!!! Dakle, još kvarca, samo u sitnijim kristalićima.
Osim što možda malo još pojačava djelovanje - time ti ode i manje epoksidne smole. A kad pomiješaš epoksi i pijesak - kad se stvrdne - tvrđe je od betona. Probaj borerom probušiti 1-2 cm, pa da vidiš kako se tupi borer... ( dobro, možda bi oni skupi boreri bolje bušili, ali... ipak... ).
Ima veze kako su krupne metalne strugotine ili komadi. Ako je jako sitno ( manje od 1 mm ) onda dobiješ jaki orgonit, ali ga moraš pobuđivati sa nekim slabijim. Dakle, treba "paljenje", neće se sam od sebe "uključiti" i mislim da tu onda netko spominje čak paziti na neko usmjerenje. Ako su malo krupnije strugotine ili komadići - onda se orgonac sam pali i nema tako jako djelovanje kao ovaj "sitničav", no nema ni opasnosti od nekog "krivog usmjerenja" ili "pojačavanja negativnog OR-a"! Ima verzija sa više različitih slojeva, prvo veći, pa onda manji komadi... sve ovisi o namjeni i izradi.
U biti, čitao sam jedan dobar članak o izradi orgonaca - tamo je podijeljena jačina na 3 stupnja - prema veličini metalnih strugotina ili komadića. Čak je rečeno da orgonac i ne mora imati kristale da bi radio i djelovao, ali se ipak preporuča staviti ih ( valjda služe kao neki energetski akumulatori, primopredajnici, filteri i usmjerivači ). Evo ga:HHG Tips
(edited version of a consultation response)
by Jon Logan
I am a person with interests in the broader field of applied ‘subtle energy’ engineering. That said, HHGs are relatively simple devices and one does not need to be a tech-head in order to make them.
First off, while it does IMO coax a bit more performance from the units if you use double-terminated quartz crystals in the HHG, you do not NEED to use double-terminated quartz specimens. You can also use single terminated quartz points. You can also use tumbled quartz pieces. Depending on where you live and your financial circumstances, it may or may not be affordable/practical for you to use double-terminated crystals.
(DT = Double terminated; ST = Single Terminated)
If you elect to use a combination of DT and ST crystals, then use the DT for the vertical xtal in the HHG, and the lower quality ST or tumbled pieces for the horizontal crystals. Use the nicest xtal in each group of 5 for the one that ‘stands up’ in the center of the HHG. The HHGs can be made in any shape, though generally they are made in some variant of a cone or pyramid shape. Cones are an easy shape to work with and one which you can find suitable molds for with relative ease. Go get some cheap plastic funnels at your local home depot, Wal-Mart, builders supply store, etc. Cut the tip off the funnel and glue, tape or melt it closed to plug the hole. Tape is the best (quick) method of doing this, and I recommend using either a good quality masking tape or (better) aluminum auto body tape.
Normally MHD or HD is used for HHGs. This is because the matrix must be ‘open’ enough for the HHG to be reasonably active in a passive mode. With the higher densities, the matrix needs be stimulated in some way in order to process any significant quantity of energy.
Copper is an excellent choice of metal for the HHGs. Any metal will work, but copper has a bit broader response range than aluminum. Aluminum is probably the single most commonly-used metal for making HHGS, and it works fine despite assertions by some that it is unsuitable. The energy signature of aluminum is not as ‘good for you’ as that of copper, or steel (see Edgar Cayce regarding suitability of carbon steel for human energy field). But for HHG or TBs made to be ‘gifted’ in the open, it works fine. For HHGs which you intend to use indoors or which will be handled a lot, then copper is a better choice (IFF it is to be had).
One thing you can do to enhance the action of the material is to use more than one type of metal. Use 2 different types of metal such as one could construct a battery from, ie. one ferromagnetic, the other diamagnetic... one with a higher conductivity than the other. So for example, you could mix a little bit of steel, iron, pyrite, chalcopyrite or nickel into the copper. An economical source of steel is to get some fine or ultra fine steel wool and cut it up into short pieces about 1⁄4” long with a pair of scissors. While this is time-consuming, it is economical.
Another source of steel is to go around to local machine shops and ask for steel shavings or filings. Often they will give you this for free if you tell them it is for a craft project. Steel and copper go well together. Brass is also often available as shavings from key cutting machines – go ask them at your local hardware store for the shavings and often you can get them for free.
An example of a an MHD metal mixture for general-purpose use would be:
Copper (or aluminum) 75 to 90%
Steel - 22.5 to 9.5%
Brass – 0.5 to 2.5%
It is OK if the brass and steel particles are much smaller than the copper, and you need only mix in a small amount of the other metals to get the effect. Alternately, if you had lots of steel and only a little copper you could mix a little of the copper into the steel.
Another cheap trick is to add a single, reasonably large gold-plated bead to each HHG. It does not need to be a high quality gold plating. Gold has an excellent energy signature for HHGs and so does silver. If you are using a ‘tiny’ piece of a precious metal, you can get away with using only a single small piece if it is placed in either the tip of the cone or the center of the base of the cone. If you want to be more finicky then you can carefully tape a small piece of gold or silver to the side of the vertical xtal in the HHG. Point being, you can use a small piece of precious metal to influence the whole energy signature of the HHG if it is placed in a focal point of energy within the cone. The tip, center crystal, and center of base are all focal points of energy within the cone.
In addition to the metals, you can add any of the following minerals in small amounts, they are all IMO safe for general purpose use:
Hematite and lapis lazuli are also great but may too strong for some folks, some people react badly to hematite and some people get over stimulated by lapis lazuli.
That said, I often work with a combination of turquoise, lapis lazuli and hematite in my HHGs and TBs.
Before you ask, the word ‘organic’ means ‘made mostly out of carbon atoms’. It does NOT mean ‘formerly living tissue’, ‘of natural origin’, ‘non-toxic’, ‘environmentally friendly’ or anything else similar.
The most commonly used organic resin is polyester resin with MEKP catalyst, used normally for fiberglass work. It is nasty to work with but works just fine for making orgone matrix material. Do not go and ask for polyester resin at the hardware store they won’t know what you mean; ask for fiberglass resin and they will know what you mean. Polyester resin often cracks while curing and for HHGs the small cracks do not affect the performance of the device much, unless they cause the casting to fall apart.
Another plastic resin you can use is epoxy. Epoxy is also nasty to work with but works just as well for making HHGs. While epoxy is not as prone to cracking as polyester, it also does not shrink away form the sides of the mold when it cures. Sometimes shrinking away form the mold makes it easier to remove the finished casting.
Acrylic casting plastic also works well and is generally a bit more expensive than polyester of epoxy. It is not prone to cracking but tends to trap small air bubbles. It does not shrink away form the side of the mold when it cures. It has a slightly nicer feel than polyester but IMO not nice enough to warrant the often 3x price.
Hardened pitch from trees is a natural resin that you can use. While not as durable and possessed of tendency to soften and sag when left in the hot sun, it is a natural material and has a nice feel to it.
Beeswax can also be used but again is neither as efficient as pitch nor even as durable as pitch. Plastic resin are generally used because they are easily available, durable and economical compared to most of the other alternatives.
You can mix a small amount of powdered herbs into the resin for a semi-homeopathic effect. I leave it to you to decide what herbs are best used, and suggest that you spend some time reading up on it. As a simple suggestion, I might recommend sage, as it has energetic properties that work well in an HHG, is more or less safe for general use, and is easily accessible inmost supermarkets. You only need to use a tiny amount of the sage in the resin, say 0.5 to 1.5 teaspoons of powdered sage per a gallon resin.
I also sell a premix powder blend suitable for using in HHGs (by adding small amounts) or in making EXD (used with just the powder and resin).
You could add a pinch of finely powdered iron oxide (rust form steel or iron, or red earth if you can find red earth where you live) to the resin.
You do not need to put a mobius coil in an HHG. You can do so, put TBH the flat spiral coils are more suited to use in HHGs than a mobius coil. Adding a mobius coil changes the HHG into a small broadcast device. You then have to pay attention to what is running through that coil.
If you want to make something with a mobius coil in it, then cast a small disk or slab of HD or XHD and put a coil in that.
An optional step but well worth the effort. You do not need a mobius-coil-driven generator to program resin, though of course you could build a small one to use for this purpose. An easier option to get started would be to just use a PC sound card and some audio speakers. Put the speakers close to the resin and play the solfeggio frequencies while the resin cures. Or, you can download the file in the audio files section of my new site:
(use the word member for the logon and use the word isubscribed for the password), follow the links to the audio files section and download the phi resonance tones file.
(click on the members link to access members area) If you don’t want to download the file then use NCH toner and play 741 and 528 Hz.
You can use magnets in an HHG, but it is not necessary and some care needs to be taken to fit the magnets in correctly. I would suggest you omit the magnets in your first several batches and add them only if you are not getting the results you are looking for. When a magnet is added to an HHG, you have to pay attention to which polarity of the magnet is where, and deploy the HHG accordingly. Magnets are suited for disk shaped HHG and the disks should be used by holding the N pole of the magnet against the skin.
Since you intend to sell them, I assume you plan to make a few of them. Therefore, I would suggest that you keep the first batch simple. Here is a quick overview of what I would recommend:
Little bit of steel
Tiny bit of brass (optional)
Polyester or Acrylic
Herbs / Powders: (optional)
Pinch of Sage
Pinch of Iron Oxide
ST or DT try to pick a nice one for the central, vertical xtal (point up if ST, points In on base if ST)
Gold or Silver
(one or all of above)
Try to leave a layer about 1/8” to 1⁄2” thick on the bottom of the cone (or pyramid, disk / other shape) that is just resin, no metal.
Sanding / Finishing:
Not needed, but it’s a good idea to grind or sand off the sharp edges sometimes left by casting. It does not hurt them to paint them if desired. If using a metallic paint, leave the bottom of the cone and a small area at the tip of the cone unpainted.
For outdoor use, place in a body of water, in contact with a grounded structural building member, or bury under a few inches of soil. For indoor use, move the item semi-regulary (every few months at least). Also, you should either run cold water over the HHG for a few minutes or place it outdoors in contact with the ground - at least twice a year.
Do this while the resin is actively curing, use a tone generator, your favorite ‘healthy’ music, radionics software, or focused visualizations / chanting/ toning / etc.
© Jon Logan 2007
Evo kako izgleda jedan "mališan" kojeg sam još davno napravio bez pijeska... dakle, bakar, željezo, kristali i epoksidna smola:
A kristali ne moraju biti "špice", već djeluju i kao nepravilni komadići, oblutci ili bilo kojeg drugog oblika. Što su "čišći" - to imaju jače djelovanje.